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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.